[2014 Italy] Uffizi gallery, Duomo & strolling in Firenze

I woke up in sunshine (the curtain were just for show, they wouldn't close all the way) and the sound of church bells an hour before my alarm. Despite that, I felt rested, probably because this hotel was super quiet. This being my first day, I decided to take it easy and have breakfast in the hotel. It was pretty standard fare: croissants, cold cuts, cheese, yogurt and of course espresso drinks and drip coffee. I wasn't sure if it was included, but I didn't get charged when I checked out, so I guess it was.

This morning is devoted to the Uffizi gallery. Although I'd remembered to jot down my reservation number, I forgot what time it was for (duh!), so I decided to head over right after breakfast.

This pic was taken at the Uffizi courtyard after dark. It's so much quieter and enjoyable at that hour.

I got to the Uffize right around 9am. The gallery has 3 doors: door 1 is for people with the Firenze Card. The card costs 72 euros, and grants access to 60 museums for 72 hours, as well as unlimited use of public transportation. I'd considered this option, but didn't want to spend all of my time in museums. Besides, Florence is so compact you can easily walk anywhere within 20 minutes tops, so public transportation isn't that crucial. Door 2 is for walk-ins. The museum opens at 8:15am, and by 9am there's at least 100 people in line. Thank god I didn't go that route. Advanced reservations are processed at door #3, which had about 5-6 people in line, but moved very quickly. All I had to do was report my res number, pay 15 euros (11+4 for reservation, cash only) and I have my ticket. Piece of cake! Other than calling to make reservation, you can also do so at b-ticket, where you'd have to pay with credit card first. But I've read numerous posts about how unreliable that website is, so I ended up calling instead. Beware of other non-official websites that collect a huge handling charge.

The gallery forbids photography, which is good because it allowed me to concentrate on the artwork. Although I have to confess: I usually skipped Medieval and Renaissance art sections at the Art Institute of Chicago, so I'm clueless about these works. One interesting note: since most of the religious art focus on similar topics especially Madonna & Child, you can clearly see how artistic style progressed over the periods. There were also other famous works, such as Botticelli's "Primavera" and "Birth of Venus", I liked these a lot better (flowers everywhere~~). Despite my ignorance for Italian art, it still took me 3 hours to walk through the Uffizi. And I enjoyed it more than guided tours. Even though you learn so much more during guided tours, I know I can't remember much after an hour. Besides, you lose the freedom of really sitting down and appreciating a beautiful piece of work.

At the end of one of the corridors, you can see the Arno River nearby. Since this was the only place that allowed pictures, we tourists could finally unleash our inner photography beasts and everyone went shutter-crazy...

I heard the tap water in Florence is filtered from the Arno river, that got me just a tad worried...

 Weird looking flowers in the terrace cafe of the Uffizi

Lost and not minding it at all

After exiting the Uffizi, it was close to lunch time. Although I wasn't particularly hungry (I really loaded up on that breakfast LOL), I still wanted to try one of the restaurants on my list: Vini e Vecchi Sapori...which took me about 40 minutes of getting lost before arriving at its tiny front door, by which time I was ravenous. Perfect timing! While getting lost, I noticed there were a lot of cool little stores around Piazza Signoria, unfortunately they were all closed for lunchtime (many stores in Italy are closed for about two hours for lunch, they'll reopen around 2:30 and operate 'til 7pm), so plan accordingly if you want to shop!

     

This restaurant is another tiny space that can fit may 20 diners tops. When I got in, there were only 2 small tables left. When the waiter gave me the menu, it took me a while to realize one side was in English (I overheard another couple ask him, so it wasn't me), they really need to work on their handwriting :P

The sun was scorching today, so I decided to go something light and refreshing: caprese salad. It's a simple salad with 3 ingredients: basil, mozzarella and tomatoes, but I was amazed at the brightness of all 3 ingredients. Made me feel my taste buds must've been asleep the whole time I was in the US...

I made up for the light appetizer by getting sliced steak, but because I couldn't read the handwriting, I didn't realize there was also arugula. Oh well, I got my daily veggie-quota filled. The waiter ceremoniously drizzled fruity olive oil and freshly ground pepper on every dish, that's something I gotta start doing when I get home...

I think it has been almost a month since I last had steak (I've been good).  This one didn't look overcooked but the cut was still a bit tough. It was very flavorful though.

After lunch, I thought it's time to pay homage to the most famous landmark of Florence: the duomo. I walked by it the first night I arrived but didn't get a chance to go in because it was closed. It was a bit of a letdown inside, because it was relatively plain. But the ceiling was breath-taking. How did the artists work on this? Just looking at it made my neck sore...

I found the exterior of the church much more impressive...





After the duomo, it was time for some shopping. Prior to leaving, mom had already given me a list of things to get from L'Erbolario, an hearbal-based skincare line from Italy that's ridiculous popular in Taiwan. This little shop called Biffoli right by the duomo is mentioned on every Chinese blog about travels in Florence, likely because of its excellent location. They actually sell a bunch of other brands too, which is why it took me quite a while before paying for the goods the helpful saleswoman gathered for me based on my list. The past few times I walked by, it was always filled with Asians. Luckily there were only two Caucasians today, and after browsing for a long time, they each left with a few pieces of soap. I chuckled a bit because that seemed so much less than the numerous bags Asian customers leave the store with. My list was actually nowhere as long as some of the other blog articles I'd read, but it was enough to qualify the purchase for VAT refund (i.e. over 155 euros). The owner's wife threw in a whole bunch of free samples, and actually called out each variety in Chinese: facial mask, body lotion, shampoo...etc. I was impressed!

Big bag of skincare in hand, I decided to head back to the hotel for a nap. But of course I had to stop for gelato first! My first gelato stop in Florence is at GROM, a national chain. I tried zabaglione and hazelnut. They were good quality with lovely flavors, but this being my first stop, I'm withholding my judgement.

After my hour-long nap, I decided to find the Accademia, where I have a reservation for tomorrow morning. On the way there, look what I found? No, of course I did NOT go in!

 Piazza Annunziata

 Erm...so...I got lost again (I seem to do that a lot in Florence). This time I ended up at San Marco church. It may not look much outside, but it's quite ornate inside.

 Even Florenzian door knocks fascinate me...

 

This little shop had some really cute trinkets on display in their window. Thankfully (for my luggage and wallet) they were closed...

Apparently Ferraris are as rare in Italy as they are elsewhere, so everyone was taking pictures with it. This dad was so persistent he charged his little boy with the task of operating his fancy dSLR...

 One thing I love about Europe: quality street performers. This trio was playing on Piazza Repubblica and was good enough to stop me in my tracks to sit down and listen. A million times better than the teenagers pounding on empty buckets on our Mag Mile...

 On my way to the river, finally found the little piggie in Mercato Nuovo. It's believed touching his snout will guarantee you return to Florence. I gave it a few good strokes and made a nice tourist nearby take pictures as evidence. I'm SO coming back!

 The loggia is an open-air exhibit of statues right on Piazza Signoria. Even though these may not be originals or even famous, I appreciate the opportunity to be able to walk around the statues in close proximity and enjoy them from every angle. Florence opened my eyes to sculptures: unlike two dimensional artwork, sculpture is so much more lifelike. Every angle evokes different feelings and understanding. I'm amazed at how artists convert a piece of rock to muscle lines, vivid expressions and billowy robes.

 There's a copy of David in front of the Palazzo Vecchio. Although the current one is fake, this spot is actually the original, intended resting place for Michaelangelo's masterpiece.

 After you appreciate the lovely Neptune fountain, circle round back to find the hidden water fountain and fill up your water bottle. Don't pay 2 euros for bottle water (which probably came from the same fountain...).

 Saw this interesting "bikes" artwork on the side of a building in a small alley by the river

 The setting sun painted every building with this rich golden hue. Somehow I've always associated this shade of gold with Tuscany.

 I didn't have any plans for dinner, so after seeing the numerous tripadvisor and yelp stickers on Trattoria Antico Fattore's door, I decided to walk in.

 Unfortunately the food was nothing special. The ravioli was thick and hard, and filled with something that tasted like gummy mashed potatoes. I loved the mushroom sauce, however. Dessert was a letdown: the panna cotta was super-rich and very dense. And buried in copious amounts of strawberry sauce. I'm sticking to gelato from now on.

This weird, illuminated statue was behind the restaurant. I don't even want to know what's the story behind it. Better head back to my hotel and catch some zzzzs. Tomorrow, I've got a date with David.